johnrogers’ posterous - i am just a guy. here are my adventures, thoughts, loves, and rants.

Sacred Valley Tour: Cusco, Ollantaytambo, and More!

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Cusco, Peru

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Peruvian Folklore Dancing

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Faces on Fire, Machu Picchu, and Aguas Calientes

After my travel buddies and I met up with a French-speaking couple from New Catalonia, an island off the coast of Australia, we took a bus to Ollantaytambo, and from there arrived in Aguas Calientes via Peru Rail. When we arrived it was pouring down rain and there was a small Peruvian girl at the train station holding a sign that read, "John Roger" ... that's me, I guess.

It is slow season right now, so the city is only at about half capacity. The restaurant owners are all standing on the street spouting off Spanish and showing off their menus to get customers into their restaurants. On the first night we feasted for only $6. Free drinks included. I noticed lots of construction going on with many fancy hotels and restaurants being built. One had a sign telling of an open position for a manager. John moving to Peru? Tempting.

The next morning we woke up at 3:00AM to hit the trail and head to the ancient Inca village of Machu Picchu. Packs loaded and headlamps burning, we set off on the hour long hike. It was very difficult... more difficult than the Haiku Stairs in Hawaii, I would say. At last, we arrived at entrance to the city to be with all of the other fools at the wee hours of the morning. Pic below.

Once the gates opened we opted to hike to the summit of Huyana Picchu, which is the tall peak in the background of the picture of the village. Even at only 8,800' it is much more difficult to breath. Even the fittest of people were a bit sluggish on the stairs up.

Once we reached the top, it was like a multi-cultural party with people from all over the world singing Happy Birthday to their friends, snacking on granola bars, and basking in the sun.

As the legend goes, the High Priest of Machu Picchu village lived atop Huyana Picchu with the local virgins. Each morning he would make the trek into the village to signal the coming of a new day. A girl we were hiking with said, "I couldn't imagine living up here as a virgin..."

Once we returned to Aguas Calientes we anxiously took showers and signed up for a Peruvian massage (very inexpensive for 1 hr), followed by some nachos con wacamoles and cerveza.

Christina and I met up with our travel partners for dinner at a delicious little Italian spot. About half way through dinner, Meg, a girl in our travel group, shouted, "OH MY GOD!" ... I turned over my shoulder only to find a Peruvian woman´s maize boiler was engulfed in flames. Her face was on fire so she quickly ran into her shop, and while I ran half a block to throw some water on the flames there were several Blancos standing around watching. Good news: The fire was not an oil fire and I was able to put it out with a bottle of water. Bad news: The woman will likely not receive the treatment she needs, and will end up scarred for life.

Check out my next post for some awesome photos of the hike and the city.

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Yesterday, I ate blood... seriously.

I arrived in Peru two days ago. I spent New Years Eve on an airplane and it was less exciting than I would have hoped for. It was a cramped flight from Miami to Lima, and the Peruvian woman next to me kept leaning on my shoulder as she fell asleep with her mouth open.

Once I arrived, I passed customs with ease and stepped outside to meet my ride. Apparently, I don't look like a Peruvian, so I was instantly assaulted by at least a dozen taxi drivers looking to hustle me for a few extra bucks. (Note: When in South America, don't tip the taxi drivers. They are most likely calling you a Gringo, and they've already hustled you for a tip by the time you are finished negotiating a price).

For my first dinner in the country, Christina and I went to a restaurant called Long Horn Steakhouse, that specializes in... guess what... Steak! We ordered the Meat Skillet for two, which included veal skewers, pork chops, steaks, chorizos and another type of sausage. This last one was the surprise.

Let me first start by adding this disclaimer: I did not knowingly eat blood... in the beginning.

I first cut into the sausage I noticed it was not the consistency of the typical sausage of bratwurst I have been used to eating. Sticking the fork in wasn't as easy, because the wurst was less rigid that typical. Once cut, subsequent cuts tended to squish the filling out onto the plate rather than cleanly slicing through it. It was a very dark filling, and was quite delicious.

Christina: Disculpame
Waiter: Si
Christina: ¿Cómo llaman eso? (pointing to the sausage)
Waiter: Morcilla cocida
Christina: Y señor, ¿de qué esta hecho?
Waiter: De sangre, señorita.

Morcilla cocida.... also known as black pudding, blood pudding, blood sausage, bloedworst, and a few others depending on where in the world you are dining. It is a type of sausage made by cooking blood or dried blood with a filler until it is thick enough to congeal when cooled. Pig or cattle blood is most often used, and typical fillers include meat, fat, suet, bread, sweet potato, barley and oatmeal.

By the time we knew what it was we were eating, we had already finished the first one. Then we found out. Then, I ate the second one. It was delicious!

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Apartment in Lima, Peru

                           
Click here to download:
Apartment_in_Lima_Peru.zip (693 KB)

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Peru Almost Cancelled Due to Kidney Disease and Diabetes

Along with leaving work behind comes leaving behind the good health benefits. Since leaving Strands I have purchased some basic short-term health insurance to cover any unexpected emergencies, but since my deductible will be higher with the new insurance I decided to have a routine physical exam before leaving the country.

I felt nothing wrong and believed that I was completely healthy, but figured that while I've got the coverage I might a well have some tests done to get a run-down on my health. So, 3 days before Christmas I went in to see this guy who looks like he is from outer space and we got it on. After some cheek-spreading awkwardness and pubic poking, which, was not made any more comfortable by his seemingly lack of social skills, I gave some blood samples and went home thinking that everything was 100%...

Maybe I was wrong.

3 days later I got a phone call from a nurse informing me otherwise, and was also warned of a letter which would be arriving the next day to recommend I make an immediate appointment with a nephrologist. A kidney specialist. Needless to say, I was shocked. I drove from Corvallis to Portland that afternoon nearly emotionless, and was fortunate to squeeze an appointment in the next day to see this dude from Kentucky.

The doctor told me that based on the results from the initial test, my glucose level was 155 (major diabetes!) and that my kidneys were functioning at only 25%. @#$%!!! Despite not showing any of the physical symptoms that would normally accompany these results, I was told by the nephrologist that, if these test results were accurate, complete kidney failure, dialysis, and the need for a transplant were right around the corner. I wouldn't be going to South America.

I brought my parents to the appointment with me (It's easier for them to hear news like this directly from the doctor, rather than me repeating everything when I get home. If you know my mom, you know what I mean.). When we left the nephrologist's office that morning we were all silent. If the initial results were accurate I would have some major decisions to make: kidney dialysis, transplant, live with it until I expire, etc.

So, before leaving the kidney specialist's office I ordered a repeat test to examine my blood, and this time accompanied it with a urine exam to check the level of proteins in my stream. "No way these results can be accurate," I thought. "Something's got to be fucked up. I feel completely healthy and there is no history of Kidney Disease OR Diabetes on either side of the family."

While at REI for the last time before departing Portland, I got a phone call... just 14 hours before my scheduled departure from PDX.

"John, this is Dr. Bates. You're totally healthy. The follow-up test results came back normal. 100%, across the board."

Never before have I experienced tears of joy like that. I called my family. I called my girlfriend. I called friends. I told the guy standing next to me who was shopping for a sleeping bag. Anyone who would listen, I told them the story. I couldn't have been more excited. I couldn't stop smiling.

Now, I just have to wonder: how were the first results so inaccurate? Either a) there was some sort of error made while processing the samples; or, b) my results were mixed with some poor schmuck with crappy kidneys. If it is b), then I hope it gets straightened out... because right now he is out running the streets thinking he has stellar kidneys.

Real happy to hear that everything is going to be ok man. Nothing like a scare to make the sun shine brighter. Safe journeys my friend. 
~ Text from my good friend Ramon. He was with me when I got the bad-news call.

No joke, Ramon. Live life while you've got it, and get it while the gettin' is good.

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Gear and Prep for South America

While I could have done much more planning for a 2.5 month trip to South America, I find a slight thrill in 'playing it by ear' (Sorry, C. It is what it is!). More important than planning, in my opinion, is being prepared for where ever the adventure leads. Below are some gear, thoughts, and services I have found most useful in planning my trip....

SPOT GPS Messenger
This is a cool little device that, with the push of one button, let's me update my current location at a map, sent a text/e-mail to up to 10 friends letting them know that I'm okay or I need help, or contact global emergency services to coordinate a rescue. If I crash while cycling the World's Deadliest Road in Bolivia, I'll hope to not break my arms so I can reach that button.

UV Water Purifier
Not sure if I'm going to end up using this, but I think it's a cool device for the outdoors-person regardless. It is a submersible wand that will, in 90 seconds, kill any living organisms in up to 32 ounces of water. Worse than maybe not using it on this trip, it requires those stupid photo-size batteries that are expensive and hard to find. In the end, if I need some clean water and can't find it, this thing will be my best friend.

Comfortable Pack
This is key. If you're going to be spending more than a week with a backpack, it had better be comfortable. They can be expensive, but the way I see it, this is my home. If I'm going to be living out of it and packing it around for weeks at a time, it's worth the extra money to get one that is a) quality construction, b) comfortable, and c) lightweight. I went with the Gregory Z65.

Equally Comfortable Shoes
Same story as the pack. Keen makes some really durable shoes that are equally comfortable.

Google Voice
This solution is less than ideal since Google does not yet allow forwarding to international numbers, but it's the best I could come up with. You want to talk to me? Call my regular cell phone (same number I've had for years) and it is forwarded to Google Voice. Same with sending me text messages. I can then login to Google Voice account from an internet café to listen to and read your messages.

Skype
You called me and I want to call you back? I'll use Skype. I just need to find an internet café, and it will cost me less than $0.03 to call you in the States. Almost any internet café will have Skype installed on their computers, and if they have WiFi I can just launch the app from my iPhone.

Short-term Health Plan + Assist America
When I resigned from work I knew I'd be losing medical, dental, and vision coverage, and COBRA is simply too expensive. And, until that Obama guy that people keep talking about helps provide a better option, this is the best I could come up with. My friend Scott in Corvallis set me up with PacificSource for a measly $315 for 6 months of coverage. As expected, the deductibles are higher than my PPO and I don't have vision or dental coverage (my eyes are fine and I just had a routine dental cleaning). I can renew the plan for another 6 months when it expires, and after that Scott can help me move to another provider.

Pocket Knife + Leatherman
If some punk comes to you on the street and says, "Give me all of your money!", what do you do? Judgement call. Likely, I'll give him whatever spending money I had for the day and let them go feed their family. Or, I could pull a slick spring-loaded knife and put 'em down! ... Or, more likely, just use the knife to peel some fruit in a market. A Leatherman multi-tool is always useful to have around as well. I am just one the first day of my trip, and I have already used it.

Ultrathon Bug Repellant 
This stuff made my 3M lasts for 12 hours per application and contains 34% DEET (about as high of a concentration you want on your body). It has a convenient sponge applicator so you don't need to smear it on your hands before applying. Most repellants only last 2-4 hours before needing to be reapplied.

Crappy Cell Phone
Nothing screams, "Hey, look at me! I'm American! Rob me!" like pulling out an iPhone in a crowded market. My SIM card is installed in the crappy cell phone and the phone is turned off most of the time (forwarding to Google Voice), but if it gets stolen I can easily replace it. And it has a calculator, too! So I can conveniently calculate exchange rates and such. 

Non-Branded Lightweight Clothing
I think this is key. When I walk down the street, I don't want to have swooshes and TNF waterfalls all over me. For clothing to wear while I'm adventuring I have several long sleeved button-up shirts made of synthetic materials. They have vents to keep me cool, and allow for the sleeves to be rolled up and snapped into place. For pants they are either lightweight cotton or synthetic fiber, and zip-off legs are often a plus. I have short sleeves and shorts, but to keep sun and bugs away I prefer the long stuff.

Medications and Aid
- Doxycycline (anti-malaria)
- Ciprofloxacin (traveler's diarrhea)
- Acetazolamide (altitude sickness)
- Pepto Bismol
- Advil
- First Aid kit

Sleep Sack (Sleeping-bag Liner)
Hostels don't always have a clean sheet for you to use. Sometimes they even require you bring you own. This is a very very lightweight sleeping bag, but works perfectly to ensure you're not trading pubes with a stranger.

Non-Cotton Trousers, Socks, and Clothing
Laundry is a luxury. I'll have to wear the same pairs of things for a couple days in a row and synthetic fibers do not get as wet quickly, they dry fast, and don't smell as much. Well, I'm not sure about that last one, but I'm gonna go with it anyway.

LED Headlamp
Better than any flashlight you could buy. I like Petzel as a manufacturer, and have the Myo EXP and the Tikka Plus 2. 8x lithium batteries only.

Lithium Batteries: 8x Energizer
These are a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. The weigh less than traditional alkaline and last a lot longer in high-tech devices. I'm bringing a few extra just in case I or a friend need them.

Lonely Planet's "South America on a Shoestring" Book
I was told that this is the book to have. So, I went to Amazon and bought a used copy... already highlighted and dog-eared for my browsing convenience. It has everything from where to stay, things to see, place not to go, and how to get where you want to go. It's a little thick to be packing around, but when I get to a new town and I'm all alone without a common language I think it will come in handy.

Earplugs and Headphones
Sometimes you just want to yell, "SHUT THE @#$% UP!" Well, now I don't have to. People snore and talk in their sleep at hostels and airplanes and busses are noisy, so I packed some ear plugs to deaden the noise, and my headphones are the rubber type that squeeze into the ear to block out other sounds.

Cheap Digital Watch
Easier to look at and much less attention-catching than pulling a cell phone out of the pocket. Mine has a Nike swoosh on it, but i think I'll use a black market and have it removed. Doubles as an alarm clock, too!

Copies of ALL Travel-related Documents
Passport, health insurance card, drivers license, tentative itinerary, hostel and airline reservations, emergency contact info (local, and at home), contact info for US Embassies... if it is important and may be used, I think it's worth having copies of. Keep a copies of some things in all of your bags, and other times leave the original at home in case you get robbed. 

Cash
I've heard different things about this. I'm bringing a wad of US Dollars (mostly small bills) and have stowed it away in various locations. 

That's all I've got for now, but if other items come to mind I'll update this post to include them.

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My First Two Weeks South America

Since leaving work at the beginning of December, I think that I have now been to every REI in the Portland area at least twice, including an early morning visit at 5:30AM to camp out for the Used Gear Sale. Expenses have quickly added up as I have been planning and preparing for the trip, but I justify it by telling myself that the experience will be worth it and the gear will be used again in the future. I bought some new shoes, for example, for $60.... If I wear them for 90 days, that is $0.67/day. If each day I walk an average of 5 miles (~8,800 steps), that's $0.007 per stride.... those are cheap steps!

I have not been keeping exact track of all of my expenses along the way, but as I sit on the (cramped) airplane from Miami to Lima here's what comes to mind:
$1,000 Roundtrip airfare (w/ trip insurance)
$500  Airfare within Peru for first 2 weeks (Cusco, Puerto Maldonado, Aguas Calientas...)
$640 Guided Amazon expedition in Peru (all-inclusive + optional hallucinogen trip w/ shaman!)
$750 My split of rent for a flat in Lima for 2.5 months
$300 Vaccinations, prescriptions, medical preparations
$800 Gear (Pack, GPS, clothing, water purification, bug repellant, etc.)

Since I will initially be with a group of friends from the States, we'll be doing most of the "touristy" things during these first two weeks while they are visiting, so I anticipate subsequent weeks and adventures to be much much less expensive.

So, here's what I've got planned so far....
Jan 1-3: Winston, Margaret, John, and Derrick arrive in Lima.

Jan 4: Fly from Lima > Cusco and stay at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor on our way to Machu Picchu.

Jan 5: Spend the day in Cusco. Formerly the capital city of Peru, I hear it is very European with lots of cool things to see and do like artisan markets!

Jan 6: Take the local bus from Cusco > Ollantaytambo ($3), spend ~1 hr in Ollantaytambo before taking a train from Ollantaytambo > Machu Picchu ($30). No reservations made for the bus or train, but you can read some details here. Stay for the night at Hostel Machu Picchu.

Jan 7: Wake at 4AM to hike Machu Picchu! I also want to make it to the top of Huayna Picchu as well. This is the tallest peak in the area, and takes about 4 hours to summit. Rumor has it that when the Inca inhabited the city of Machu Picchu, the high priest lived on top of Huayna Picchu along with all of the virgins. Every morning he would make the hike into the city to signal the coming of a new day. Talk about a rough commute! Stay at Hostel Machu Picchu again.

Jan 8: Take the train from Machu Picchu > Ollantaytambo, and then a bus from Ollantaytambo > Cusco. Stay at Pirwa Posada del Corregidor again.

Jan 9-10: Lake Titicaca? Puno? Lima? Arequipa? Cusco for some more days? Playing it by ear for these couple of days.

Jan 11: Fly from Cusco > Peurto Maldonado where the Amazon expedition begins! 

Jan 15: Fly Peurto Maldonado > Cusco > Lima. Return to the flat in Lima for some rest and relaxation.

Derrick, Winston, and Margaret don't depart until the 17th, so for these two days I suspect we will simply live like Peruvians! Markets, salsa dancing, surfing... lots to do!

Goodbye USA and mundane work-life; hello adventure!

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Hello and welcome!

I have invited you here to keep up with my upcoming adventures.  You can use the links to the right to subscribe via posterous, e-mail, or RSS.  Also there is a link to my SPOT GPS locator, which will show my most recent location from anywhere in the world.

As of the beginning of December I will no longer be a working stiff.  By choice, I am resigning from my position at Strands to embark on a 3 month journey though South America.  By January 1st I will be arriving in Lima, Peru, where I will join a few good friends to expedition through the Amazon, hike Machu Picchu, swim in Lake Titicaca, and visit the ancient cities of Peru.

By mid-January my friends will have returned Stateside, and for the months to come I will be living out of an 65L pack, backpacking through South America... alone (for now).

I speak 0 Spanish and have never traveled outside of the U.S. (Canada and Caribbean don't count).  This is certain to be a life-defining experience, and I will be using my posterous to share pictures, stories, and videos of my adventures.

Considering there will be mixed company reading my posterous I will do my best to keep it appropriate for all, so please keep the comments appropriate as well.  If I cross paths with some topless natives in the jungle, however, don't be surprised to see some a picture of John + 2.

Be well,

Email: john.q.rogers@gmail.com
Skype: johndrogers

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